Thursday, 12 November 2015

A fresh face, chatting with Phil

Our newest team member Phil was born in Dublin in 1989 and spent the 90s pursuing a soccer career which never quite materialised.  Turning to books he studied history with a particular focus on 16th century Ireland.  This in turn inspired the search for exotic escapes, Argentina, Japan, the travel seed was planted.  Phil finished his degree in Melbourne but found the incessant sunshine and general sense of optimism crushingly at odds with the Irish spirit.  In this light, Berlin seems an appropriate place for Phil to have settled down, for the time being as least...

With winter approaching, what are your plans, the to-do-list of getting acquainted with Berlin during its long, dark months?

Surviving is high on that list. This will be my first winter in Berlin and I've been told to prepare for something quite grim and cold, but having moved from Ireland I'm surely well suited, they are two of our main exports. A fact which may explain the current imbalance in relations between our two countries. Another priority during those long dark winter months is staying active. The tendency at this time of year is to over consume- in all areas- and do less but it's something I'm keen to avoid. If for no other reason than I'll quickly take on the physical appearance of a melted candle

Aside from those two relatively unambitious goals, I really want to immerse myself in the language by taking courses. In school I had the option to study Spanish or German. As I was deciding which, I vividly remember uttering the words 'I'll never live in Germany', before going with Spanish! Berlin is also a centre of ideas and I'd like to become more acquainted with some of the groups that organise and campaign for alternative solutions to some of the big issues of the day. Before I left home I was becoming a bit more politically conscious and engaged and I'd like to continue down that path, in a city of enormous importance.

It seems we have a few rock climbers on our team.  Brandenburg is not really known for its mountains though.  How is your new home treating you in terms of this hobby?  Have you explored any of the urban climbing centres in Berlin, or have you found some free climbing locations?

What Berlin lacks in 8000m peaks, it more than makes up for in 8000mm teaks. Actually, they're tropical and not native to Berlin so that doesn't quite work, for lots of reasons but the backspace on my keyboard is broken so it stays. No, this is not the place for climbers! I have sampled some of the indoor walls the city has to offer but the real satisfaction has always been that time in the outdoors. A beautiful setting, good company, a rope, some (climbing) gear and a crag. The fulfilment at the end of a day on the hills is impossible to get at an indoor wall, sadly! In every other facet of life Berlin is immensely satisfying but that is one void I've yet to fill. Unless there is an undiscovered fault line running under the city it's likely to always remain very flat, certainly for the duration of my stay here. I've made my peace with that.

May I probe the subject of how you ended up moving to Berlin anyway?  How does one working in a museum in Dublin come about a life opportunity in Germany?  Are you enjoying working outdoors, touring through the city as a living museum?

I moved to Berlin for a woman. Very cliché, isn't it? While in Dublin I met a student of Humboldt University doing her internship and here I am. Ira is originally Siberian, a fact which bemused my mother who thought only bears and wolves live there. We were quite fortunate finding an apartment and are nicely settled in leafy Wilmersdorf. I've usually lived in places next to cars propped up on bricks and areas filled with hooded youths masquerading as urban jedis so this has been an interesting change of scenery. Berlin's parks are wonderful and I'm right next to one with lots of ping pong tables and plenty of other facilities. Those small details make a huge difference. Walking through the city on a daily basis, I'm always amazed how much it's been through, a living museum, like you say. Everyday I feel like I'm discovering and understanding more, bit by bit, day by day. I can't think of a better way to gain that understanding than leading others through the city.

Many of our guides have commented on the spirit of Berlin, its freedom and creativity and general vibe of nonconformity.  I just discovered an illustrator who visualises those quirks which make Berlin so unique, those things that perhaps become 'normal' after a few years, but are definitely not the norm beyond the city limits.  With you having moved here fairly recently, can you share with us one of those moments where you thought, 'ahhh this is beautiful and strange and it only could happen in Berlin'.  I think you know what I mean, If not, call me crazy and skip the question!

 
Yes! There have been so many of those moments that only feel possible in this city. The one that leaps to mind happened very soon after moving here. Myself and Ira were wandering around Ostkreuz and stumbled upon a protest around the issue of housing on the grounds of an old derelict, abandoned warehouse. An interesting collection of individuals and groups in attendance- anarchists, environmentalists and so on. It was all very typical and standard but just as it appeared to be coming to an end a convoy of trucks pulled up and the protest hit the streets. Huge numbers joined in as they crawled along the busy roads while pumping techno music from enormous speakers which were mounted on top! The atmosphere was incredible and it felt absolutely unique to Berlin. Definitely one of those moments when I felt privileged to live in such a weird and wonderful place.

Your enthusiasm is contagious Phil, thank you!

Wednesday, 30 September 2015

Germany's Reunification, 25 years later

With this BIG holiday just around the corner, I thought I would share some articles which put Germany's reunification into perspective.  Catch up with this reading list, and then celebrate with confidence on Saturday!

East Berliners go west on November 11, 1989. Source: AP 
By Klaus Wiegrefe
When the Berlin Wall fell in November 1989, nobody expected Germany to be reunified less than a year later. New documents released by the Foreign Ministry in Berlin shed new light on the dramatic negotiations that led to East and West Germany becoming one. 

Reunification Renovations: A Massive Facelift for Eastern Germany

By Solveig Grothe 
During a trip to East Germany in 1990, photographer Stefan Koppelkamm discovered buildings that had survived both the war and the construction mania of the East German authorities. Ten years later, he returned to photograph the buildings again. The comparison threw up some unexpected contrasts.

'Two million fewer people in former East' since German reunification

More than 25 years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, official statistics show two million fewer people live in the former East German states. Eastern states' economies are still weak in comparison with western ones.

Germany 25 years after the Berlin Wall: 5 charts shown its transformation


Thursday, 13 August 2015

Olympic Village Day Tripping

one of the smaller cottage-like sleeping quarters
This past weekend I hopped on my bike and explored a place in Berlin that had been on my to-do-list for a long time, Olympic Village.  Located to the west of Berlin in the town of Elstal in the Brandenburg countryside lies this ruin.  Unlike Hitler's 1936 Olympic Stadium which has been renovated and is used regularly, Olympic Village is mostly un-touched aside from a few boarded up windows.  There are bits such as the indoor swimming hall which have been updated and host youth-group sport teams, but as you can see by these photos, the majority of the buildings sit in a state of decay.


House of the Nations canteen

Hindenburghaus

Elstal was located in East Germany and the Olympic village was used by the Soviet Army.  A series of pre-fab buildings were added.  The army resided here until 1992 when they officially withdrawal from German soil.

housing, now without windows or doors, Soviet era I believe

more of a villa looking building on the premises

housing, Soviet?

another view of the House of Nations canteen

4,000 sportsmen slept and trained here.  Woman were not allowed.  The above building must be Soviet era though, the pre-fabricated plattenbau which is very commen throughout former East Berlin.

more information in German http://www.dkb-stiftung.de/Veranstaltungen_Olympisches_Dorf_2014.130.htm

and an interesting article from our friends at Slow Travel Berlin http://www.slowtravelberlin.com/berlins-olympic-village/

Friday, 17 July 2015

summer in Potsdam

our guide Maria on tour

Have you been to Potsdam?  From April to October you can join Insider on a day trip to this amazing gem of a town less then an hour away from Berlin.  As the perfect weather returns I highly suggest you take the time, get out of the city, and discover this UNESCO World Heritage site.  Not only is the city incredibly picturesque, with its many palaces, lakes, manicured gardens, statues and water fountains dotted over hundreds of green acres, but it is brimming with an equally fascinating history


Monday, 25 May 2015

SUMMER

We are VERY busy hosting all our wonderful guests!  Hence the delay in posting the next Tour Guide Interview.  Please stay tuned, and in the mean time, enjoy a quick peek at the action!



Thursday, 30 April 2015

May Days of Berlin Past

Civilians in May Day parade in East Berlin

May Day In East & West Berlin (1960)

Monday, 6 April 2015

East, West and stuck in the middle with Nickolai

Born in what was then the communist capital of Bulgaria, Sofia, Nickolai's family fled from behind the Iron Curtain and made for sunny California, where he spent the bulk of his young life.  He still remembers though, his first visit to Berlin at the tender age of twelve, when the Wall left an indelible impression on him.
  
 Are there any parts of this city which remind you of your childhood in Bulgaria, aesthetically or in terms of atmosphere Nickolai?
 
In the States I used to live in New York, New Jersey, Chicago and Santa Cruz. I am such an odd mixture of West meets East and NATO meets the Warsaw Pact that my move to Berlin 10 years ago made the perfect sense and no, I never get to feel any kind of nostalgia towards my old countries; if I miss the USA I just go to Potsdamer Platz with its glitz and glamour and if I miss my childhood in communist Bulgaria then I can just go to the remote East Berlin districts of Lichtenberg and Marzahn with their depressing tenement high rises and I´ll feel right at home. Of course, one has to add that, contrary to stereotypes, not everything in the east block used to be grey, there were pockets full of colour and one such example would be the overpowering and exhilarating Karl Marx Allee, formerly known as Stalin Allee and often times dubbed Stalin´s gift to the people of the DDR. A stroll along Karl Marx Allee happens to be one of my favourite walks in the city. The feeling is very special and it also never fails to surprise the western tourists.
 
apartment block on Karl Marx Allee

 You are an avid traveller, most recently visiting Ethiopia.  Did you bring anything in particular back with you?  I hear Langano on Kohlfurterstrasse is quite a good restaurant.  Would you recommend it after having tasted authentic Ethiopian food?
 
Indeed, my number one hobby is travelling and for me the best education any human being can possibly receive is to visit foreign countries. I loved Ethiopia and what I brought back is what Ethiopia is most famous for: coffee. Thanks to a growing Italian expat community, Berlin´s coffee scene is improving but it is still not yet to the level of the country which started the entire culture of coffee drinking: Ethiopia. So Ethiopian coffee was the souvenir of choice from that country. Langano is a very good restaurant indeed but I also really like Bejte Ethiopia on Zietenstrasse 8 in Schöneberg, very close to Nollendorf Platz.

 On that note, can you recommend any Bulgarian restaurants in Berlin?  (I suppose I am hungry as I ask these questions!)
 
Berlin´s ethnic restaurant scene is fabulous and that also goes for the Bulgarian restaurants in Berlin, they are very authentic. My favourite is a place called Pri Maria, located on Gärtnerstrasse 12, right on Boxhagener Platz in the super trendy district of Friedrichshain and the reason why I enjoy it so much is because the owner, Maria, has managed to put her own twist to the otherwise, meat heavy Bulgarian cuisine, by turning her kitchen into a very vegetarian friendly kitchen and thus creating a very interesting spin to Balkan food in general. And it goes without saying, not all of the dishes on offer in this restaurant are vegetarian, there is something for everyone.
 
 With your travels often bringing you far beyond Europe, I am interested in your opinion on Berlin's plan for its Ethnological Museum collection,  due to be moved from Dahlem, on the outskirts of the city, to Schlossplatz, the reconstructed city palace.
 
Ha ha ha. If anyone wants to see traditional Bavarian clothing, lederhosen and dindlr, one does not need to travel all the way to an ethnological museum located all the way in Dahlem; one can just visit Alexanderplatz´s Hofbräuhaus and look at what the waiters are wearing. Of course, joke aside, museums such as the Ethnological Museum of Berlin and Haus der Kulturen der Welt (the house of the cultures of the world), go way beyond traditional German clothing, they are intended to show the citizens of Berlin what the world looks like outside their borders and introduce foreign cultures to the people of this city, so moving such places to central locations is a positive thing indeed. Now what my opinion is on the entire Schlossplatz project, well, you´ll have to just join my Famous Walk Tour where I have a thing or two to say regarding this controversial topic.
 
Berlin city palace, prior to WWII
 
 As with many of our guides, you have a background in theatre.  Do you feel as if you assume a role when guiding?  If you could have a Berlin street-stage name, what would it be?
 
A background in theatre really helps with tour guiding since tour guiding does require a level of performance and in my case the city of Berlin is my stage. If I have to take on a tour guiding stage name it would have to be ridiculously German sounding and it would have to be associated with Berlin´s 1920´s decadent cabaret scene, such as Fritz Grünbaum or Peter Hammerschlag (actual cabaret performers that really existed). And on this note if non German speaking tourists are interested in seeing German theater then I would have to recommend the Volksbühne on Rosa Luxamburg Platz which is an experimental theater where one does not need to follow a text in order to understand the production. 
 
Thanks for all the tips Nickolai, and see you on the streets, Hammerschlag!